Contemplation in the Nepal Himalaya

This is day 12 of my 24 day trek through the Khumbu region of Nepal -> View all posts for this trek

Today would be a short day of trekking as I was now above 4000 metres and needed to make sure that I ascended slowly for acclimatisation purposes. Although Gokyo was in easy reach, it is situated at 4900 metres, which is far too much altitude gain for one day, so I would break up my trek by staying in Machhermo, situated about 2-3 hours hike up the valley.

It was nice to not have to get up early and rush, and I didn’t get on the trail until 8am, ascending steeply up the ridge above Dole. It was a crisp and clear morning, but at the top of the ridge I stepped out into the sun and began to warm up. From here the trail only climbed gradually across a terrain of tundra like grasses and juniper bushes. I was now well above the treeline and wouldn’t see another tree for well over a week. The open terrain allowed for incredible views of ice capped mountains situated below a deep blue sky. Looking up the valley, the huge white mass of Cho Oyu (8201m), the sixth highest mountain in the world, dominated. To my right, the twin peaks of Taboche (6542m) and Cholatse (6443m) towered high up above me, rising straight up from the valley below, while to my left several sharp rocky peaks above 5000 and 6000 metres rose up directly above my path. Looking back down the valley from where I came, Kantega (6685m) still dominated the skyline.

Looking back at Dole

View up the Gokyo Valley to Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain in the world.

The gradual climb and barren terrain made for a pleasant and fairly easy walk, but I took it slowly to allow my body plenty of time to acclimatise, stopping often to hydrate and take in the amazing views. After about two hours of slow trekking, I reached the seasonal village of Luza (4340m) where walled yak pastures and stone shepherd huts sit in a small valley with an icy stream coming down from the peaks above. The huts and pastures were abandoned at this time of the year, however there are two teahouses here, and I stopped at one of them to enjoy a cup of tea, sitting out on the terrace to enjoy the warmth of the sun and the mountain views.

Waiting for a yak train to pass

Luza

Not a bad spot for a cuppa

Machhermo is situated in the next small valley over, and it was only a short trek up out of the valley and over the ridge to reach the village, which is again made up of a good amount of trekkers lodges. Machhermo is situated at 4410m and I noticed several trekkers struggling with the altitude on the way up as I passed them. Although I could certainly notice the altitude, I was handling it fairly well, which I put down to the length of time I had spent on the trail, and also my controlled slow pace. Even so, every bit of acclimatisation can help, and so after lunch I took a walk up the ridge above the village where prayer flags fluttered in the icy wind. The views were breathtaking, with tall mountains all around, towering up above the valley. Looking forward, I could again see Cho Oyu, and in the foreground, the enormous rocky moraine of the Ngozumpa Glacier, where the mighty Dudh Kosi River, which I had been following for so long, begins its journey.

Looking back down the valley above Luza

Machhermo

Prayer Flags on the ridge above Machhermo

View up the Gokyo Valley to Cho Oyu in the distance. The moraine of the Ngozumpa Glacier dominates the centre of the picture, holding back the river of ice which melts to form the Dudh Kosi River

I sheltered behind a large rock, sitting on the grass between patches of snow for quite some time, contemplating this amazing place that I was in and reflecting on life at 4500 metres above sea level. The sky at this altitude was the most beautiful deep blue colour, and the rocky and ice capped peaks contrasted beautifully against it. When I closed my eyes, all I could hear was the sound of the prayer flags fluttering in the wind. At this moment, I could have been the only person on earth.

Taboche

Contemplation at 4500m

Prayer flags flutter in the icy breeze above Machhermo

Panoramic view from my spot on the ridge above Machhermo