A Day in Positano

We only had a couple of days to explore the area south of Naples on our tour of Italy. One of those days would be dedicated to the ruins of Pompeii, so we only had one day spare to visit Italy’s famous Amalfi Coast. Although we had experienced amazing weather in Rome, so far during our stay in Sorrento, the weather was quite terrible. From our hotel window on our first day in the town, I could watch the rain clouds make their way to the coast, engulfing the top of Mount Vesuvius across the bay.

The next morning the weather wasn’t much better, though the rain appeared to be staying away for now. Since we only had one day to see the Amalfi Coast, we decided upon visiting the town of Positano, as it was closer to Sorrento than Amalfi. My plan was to catch a ferry there, to take in the coastline from the sea, and then catch the bus back to get a different perspective from high up on the hillside.

Taking the bus from Sorrento to Positano

Wandering through the streets of Sorrento, we bought an umbrella to combat the threatening rain clouds, and made our way down the steep winding path to the harbour.  After a long slow walk, somehow managing to avoid slipping over on the wet stone steps, we made it to the ticket booth, only to find that the ferries were closed down for the day due to bad weather. Our only choice now was to take the bus. Luckily a little local bus goes between the harbour and the train/bus station, so we avoided the long steep walk back up the cliffs.

Sorrento Harbour

We got to the bus station to discover that every other tourist in town seemed to have the same problem, a huge line waiting for the Positano/Amalfi bus. With no other choice, we bought our tickets and joined the queue. After around half an hour the bus finally came and people piled on, filling it up long before it was our turn to get on. The bus left and we were forced to wait for the next one, which was due an hour later. By the time it finally came we had well and truly had enough of waiting, and I was determined to get us on this bus. As the people piled on I began having doubts about whether there would be room for us or not, but luckily we just squeezed in, one of the last few to be allowed on. Squished up, standing in the isle of the bus, we were finally on our way.

The bus ride was beautiful, yet hair raising. Italians are notoriously crazy drivers, and the bus drivers are no better. The tiny narrow road winds its way along the steep hillside of the Amalfi Coast, steep cliffs dropping down below it into the incredible blues and greens of the ocean. The bus seemed way too big for the road, but the driver zoomed it along, taking the sharp turns and bends as if he were training for Formula 1. All of the tourists held on for their lives, gripping their seats or hand rails as they waited for the bus to fly over the edge of the cliff or smash into one of the other cars that were speeding in the opposite direction. The few locals on the bus simply sat unfazed, reading a book or conversing as if it was just a normal bus ride. I guess to them it was.

Although other people didn’t seem very fond of the ride, I loved it. The scenery was incredible and the rush of the racing bus on the tiny road just made it like a true adventure, and before long we made it to the bus stop at Positano.

Boats on the water in Positano

A day in Positano

As we made our way down the hill towards the town centre, I was instantly struck by the incredible views of the town and the coast. From the boats bobbing up and down on the beautiful blue water next to the beach, the town rises up the steep hillside. The main road and walking path heads down the hill towards the centre of Positano, providing amazing views all along.

A view of Positano from near the bus stop

Narrow paved and cobble stoned streets zigzag through the town, with all kinds of old buildings, houses, shops and cafes standing beside them. Although there were a lot of tourists there, Positano seemed like a fairly relaxed and peaceful little village. We stopped for some panini (Italian sandwich) at a cafe for lunch, before exploring more of the town, wandering through its tiny streets and in and out of interesting little shops.

One of the streets in Positano

At the bottom there are some more expensive restaurants and hotels, looking out over the beach and the water. So far the rain had stayed away but the clouds still threatened and the wind made the water fairly choppy, still preventing any chance of taking a boat back to Sorrento. So after a while we made the long walk back up the hill to the bus stop.

Positano from the pier

We had another long wait at the bus stop before finally making the scary journey back to Sorrento. Although getting to Positano was more of a mission than it should have been, it was well worth it. Our day on the Amalfi Coast was a great experience, and I will definitely return to see more of this amazing part of Italy.

How to get to Positano from Sorrento

Here are a few options for traveling to Positano (or other main stops along the Amalfi Coast) from Sorrento.

By Bus

• SITA Bus: The most economical option is the SITA bus, which runs regularly between Sorrento and Positano. This is how we travelled between Sorrento and Positano and back on the same day. The bus departs from Sorrento’s main bus terminal at Piazza Tasso or the Sorrento train station. The journey takes about 45 minutes to 1 hour, depending on traffic. Tickets can be purchased at the station or at local tobacco shops (Tabacchi). Be sure to sit on the right side of the bus for the best coastal views.

By Ferry

• Ferry: During the warmer months (April to October), you can take a ferry or hydrofoil from Sorrento’s Marina Piccola to Positano. The ferry ride takes about 40 minutes and offers a unique perspective of the coastline, with views of hidden coves and charming seaside villages. Tickets can be purchased online, at the port, or through various travel agencies in Sorrento. The ferry schedule may vary depending on the season, so it’s advisable to check in advance.

By Car or Scooter

• Driving: If you prefer to drive, you can rent a car or scooter in Sorrento (book online). I must stress though that it is not an easy drive and only recommended for drivers experienced with coastal Italian driving conditions. The drive along the SS163 (Amalfi Drive) is one of the most scenic in Italy, but it’s also narrow and winding, requiring careful driving, especially during peak tourist season. Parking in Positano can be challenging and expensive, so it’s advisable to use paid parking lots near the town center.
• Private Transfer: For a more comfortable and stress-free option, consider hiring a private car service or taxi. This option is more expensive but provides convenience, especially if you have luggage or prefer door-to-door service.